Category Preserves & Sauces

When I was a girl, my zia married a sailor from Genova and every summer she came home to Liguria smelling of salt air and crushed basil. She kept a little marble mortar on her kitchen table, worn smooth in…

In Emilia-Romagna, no pot in the house worked harder than the one Nonna Fiore kept for Sunday’s ragù. She rose before the sun, tied her apron twice around her waist, and stood at the board with her knife, cutting carrot,…